A Path to Wine: An Interview with Silvia Flores Cintado
Bordeaux Index
31 October 2024
Silvia Flores was born in Jerez and is the third generation of her family working at González Byass. Her grandfather Miguel Flores was the Technical Director for more than 50 years and her father, Antonio Flores, is the current Winemaker and Master Blender. Six years ago, Silvia joined the technical team of González Byass where she is working as Assistant Winemaker.
She is due to take over from her father as winemaker when he decides he would like to retire – which is not yet! Beyond her work at González Byass, she is a sommelier with experience in various Michelin-Starred restaurants in Spain. Silvia is also an official Sherry educator and is working on completing her WSET diploma.
Welcome Silvia, could you take us back to your childhood and tell us what triggered your love and passion for wine?
Sherry was always a part of my life when I was young, and it featured in all the great moments of my childhood. My father was always keen for me to be involved and try it, even if I was maybe too young! In Jerez, it’s very usual for young people, when they turn 18, to work on the vineyards during the harvest to make some money and that’s what I did. But I had no inclination to work within the wine industry. However, there were signs that maybe I would return to it. As I got older, I would sit in my dad’s office waiting for him to finish work and stare at all the bottles. Sometimes I would even try some of the bottles as I was just fascinated by them.
Could you tell us more about your journey to working in the wine industry?
Growing up in a family deeply connected to the Sherry business, it was in my blood. However, my personal interest in wine began during my time working in a renowned restaurant in Barcelona. I had the opportunity to taste a variety of wines because of the Sommelier that worked there, including a memorable experience with a fine Champagne. Unfortunately, I can’t remember what the Champagne was now, but that moment was pivotal for me. Before this I had gone to university to study History of Art then changed my studies to business and hospitality which led me to working in wine. I realised I wanted to learn more about wines, explore different regions, and deepen my understanding as at this point Sherry was the only wine I was familiar with. Subsequently, I moved into the hospitality industry, working in various roles and specialising in Sherry wines. I continued my education, eventually becoming a wine buyer for a major retailer in Spain. However, a surprising opportunity came up for me when the human resources director at González Byass contacted me, inviting me to join the winery.
How did you decide to make the shift from your successful buying career to join González Byass?
It was a decision I hadn’t anticipated. My father, understanding the magnitude of the choice, presented it to me without pressure. He recognised the contentment I had in my existing role but did remind me that it was a unique opportunity to work together and learn from him. Ultimately, the positives outweighed the negatives and decided to take the job. I’m grateful for the experience of working alongside my father as it has added an emotional dimension to my professional journey.
It wasn't something that was forced upon me but a choice I made after carefully considering the responsibilities and challenges involved. Once I had thought it through, it was a quick decision, driven by the realisation that this was a unique opportunity and a gift.
Working with family can be both rewarding and challenging. How has the dynamic been for you?
Initially, it was quite overwhelming. I found it difficult because I had no experience in wine production at that time, so I was just trying to learn as much as possible and be an information sponge. The weight of the responsibility, coupled with the fact that my father is not only my dad but also my boss, also posed challenges. Learning to balance our roles and expectations took time. It's an ongoing process, and we've had to navigate the complexities of family and business. However, it’s important to note that there are many more positives than negatives with working with family and no one wants to teach you more than your father does! He has a lot of time for me although he does expect a lot... maybe because I’m his daughter.
Silvia, would you mind sharing a little bit about your experience at the beginning working for González Byass?
I started working at González Byass in 2017 but I’ve been a Sherry educator since 2012. When I joined the winery, I made sure to do training in all sectors of the business including the laboratories, bottling, harvesting and even marketing as these are all part of my role now. Understanding how they function at a fundamental level was important to me. When I started my father gave me two things: a special tool that takes out samples and a book which we call the ‘Bible of Sherry’. It’s written by founder and family member Manuel Maria González Angel and it’s called ‘Jerez-Xerez-Scheris'. We treat it like our bible because it contains all the historical themes of Sherry and technical tools we may need. To this day, I try and keep updated in the Sherry world by reading articles and looking out for new laws as the industry is changing constantly. I make sure to learn from colleagues when I can and try wines not just from our own production to see what more we can do.
You've had a diverse experience in the wine industry, from hospitality to retail. How has this broad almost 360 view influenced your approach to winemaking?
Working in various aspects of the wine industry, from being a sommelier to a retail buyer, has provided me with a holistic perspective. This, in turn, has enriched my winemaking approach. I feel this is an asset to the business because while legacy is so important in the Sherry business, my father worked his whole life in it and never strayed into other business areas. This means he has an incredibly in-depth knowledge about Sherry but not as much of an understanding about consumer demand or how bigger companies trade wine. These are things I’ve gained from my experience before I came into the business. It enabled me to enter González Byass with a strong vision which I think has helped me in my role.
As a winemaker, what are your ambitions for González Byass in the next 5 to 10 years?
Our primary ambition is to preserve and maintain the legacy of our wines, a responsibility passed down through generations. I also aspire to make Sherry more accessible to younger generations. It's about simplifying the narrative, making the uniqueness of Sherry understandable and enjoyable, especially in a fast-paced world. Complexity shouldn't be intimidating. By presenting Sherry in a simpler manner, recommending pairings, and emphasising quality for value, we hope to demystify Sherry for newcomers. It's about providing an opportunity to taste these unique wines without the barrier of complexity or high costs.
I want the younger generation to see Sherry as a unique and enriching experience. Beyond its complexity, Sherry offers a journey into history, tradition, and the art of winemaking. It's a treasure that requires time and care, and by embracing it, they can discover a world of flavours and stories.
There are three generations of Flores who have worked with González Byass. Can you share with us the ethos of the company and the key values that the business holds for you?
Our key values, which apply to the Flores family as well, revolve around constancy or perseverance, which we refer to as "Constancia" in Spain. This value is deeply rooted in the history of González Byass, both as a business but also within our family, particularly in the story of its founder, Manuel María González Angel. Despite starting as a young boy with no knowledge of winemaking, he demonstrated incredible perseverance. This value is crucial to us because, thanks to his determination, he built all that we have now – a very big company which is thriving. The idea of constancy has been passed down through generations, and it's what has shaped our work and the company's success.
The fact that this large company has been run by one family since 1835 is noteworthy. This continuity has allowed us to weather various crises and good times in the wine production industry. The family evolved with the company and I think you can feel that within our wines and brand. It’s incredible to think we have wines in our cellar from throughout our history, some even spanning back to the 1800s! It has also helped us maintain our roots, and even as we diversify our business, the focus on our origins remain intact. The roots are essential; they provide the foundation for the company's identity. We have faced different challenges over the years, and being a family-owned business has allowed us to navigate these while preserving our valuable wines.
In the context of all of that tradition and legacy, what are the innovations that González Byass is currently working on or has planned for the future?
We are constantly innovating. One of our ongoing projects involves experimenting with different grape varieties. We are exploring their behaviour in various soils and vineyards. Recently, we initiated a project to grow and plant 30 hectares of organic Palomino Fino grapes, specifically for organic Fino Sherry. These plantings began around five years ago, and we are looking forward to the results.
We are also currently working on an expansion project for our historical bottle cellar. This space holds very old bottles dating back to 1840. We're creating a new area for special tastings and offering customers the opportunity to purchase and store a bottle in our cellar. Hopefully this will happen in the next year.
Additionally, we've initiated a unique project collaborating with renowned restaurants. They select specific vintages, and we work together to classify and preserve those wines. It's quite unique in the sense that you can have this collaboration with the restaurant and the winery, creating something together. For example, we work with a famous Michelin-starred restaurant in Spain and have offered them the 86’ vintage because that was the year the restaurant was founded. You're bringing people into your bodega to work with and create something that's unique to them and therefore unique for their customers, I find it quite emotional. That's something you wouldn't be able to do elsewhere. We believe that we have to show people the treasure that we have. And it's a very big collaboration, and we are very proud of it. We want to continue this type of collaboration.
What are you most looking forward to in the immediate future for González Byass?
Right now, we are preparing the new release of the Las Palmas range. This project involves inviting wine professionals to help select the soleras for the Las Palmas wine and we’ve had great responses so far! Jancis Robinson MW was the first to be involved in the project and selection back in 2011.
What would you say is the most important thing that you've learned from your father? And what do you think is the most important thing he's learned from you?
Patience. He always says, "Be patient, be patient, Silvia. Be patient because it will happen. Keep calm.” This is a very big lesson. You need this patience and calmness to have a good and long career, to learn, and to present yourself well to people. Time gives you all that you need. I think my father has learnt to be brave from me. To be brave in life, to face challenges, because sometimes you don't know something, but you just have to try. If you can control that, it's a good thing. Being brave and being patient.
I can see how those two things working together is really powerful and I can see how that would be a great partnership. Moving on to a final couple of fun questions, what's your favourite style of Sherry?
Amontillado. I love the complexity it has with both biological aging and the beginning of oxidative aging, and the power of the American oak. I love this type of wine. But it's difficult to choose; each style is different.
What are your favourite wine regions or styles outside of Jerez?
I love the Champagne region because when I studied sparkling wines in the WSET diploma, I found lots in common with Sherry production, including the type of soil, the climate, how it adapts but the results are obviously very different. I think that’s why I like it.
I love also the volcanic regions like Lanzarote, Etna, and Santorini. I know how complicated it is to make wines in these places, to try to get the vine safely through such hostile, windy conditions, to bear fruit; it’s very difficult. The resulting wines are amazing and very different.
If you were to look back to 2017 when you first joined González Byass, what advice would you give to yourself six years ago?
It would be to be patient and not feel pressured, to enjoy the moment, and to keep memories, and to learn. Learn as much as I can, not just from my father, but from the older people that work in the bodega. These older people know so much… the location of certain casks, the stage of their development, the best casks. Their knowledge is not in the libraries or books, and it's crucial to learn from their experiences