Concentrated and intense from the first moment, the aromatics spiral out of the glass with incense, sandalwood, camphor, fennel, anis, liqourice, smoked earth. The impact from the smoked oak is still pretty evident even now, a reflection of the winemaking style at the time, but this is stunning and filled with complex layers of raspberry puree, pomegrante, cocoa bean and espresso. Hard to resist. 100% new oak. Stephane Derenoncourt and Jean-Claude Berrouet consultants.

This vintage deserves the 'of the century' hype, combining 2008 freshness with 2003 allure. You have gorgeous ripeness, superb grip and vivacity. The 14.7% alcohol seems rather imperceptible given excellent balancing acidity. At nearly 20 years old, still on an upward trajectory, with noticeable tannic structure. When the tertiary aromas kick in, it will outshine both the 2003 and the 2008. A rather conservative score, because the 100 points will come with that added complexity. Consultant Stephane Derenoncourt calls it a 'legendary vintage'. I agree, although the 2016 is even better. 3.51pH.

Dense ruby/purple, with notes of crushed rock, blueberry and blackberry fruit intermixed with some licorice and chocolate, this full-bodied, massive wine from proprietor Philippe Cuvelier coincides with the resurrection of this premier grand cru classé in St.-Emilion. As the wine sits in the glass, notes of espresso roast and chocolate emerge. This full-bodied classic should continue to drink well for another 25 years. This is a killer effort.

The Clos Fourtet 2005 has a lifted, relatively high-toned bouquet with scents of blackcurrant jam, boysenberry and cassis, a light floral scents developing in the glass that still needs to resolve a little. The palate is medium-bodied with calms everything down with a sensual texture, perfectly judged acidity and a very elegant dark cherry and cassis finish. Give this another four or five years in bottle if you can resist.
– eRobertParker.com, Feb 2015

Good deep red-ruby. Reduced nose offers redcurrant, plum, coffee and smoke. Sweet, lush and creamy on entry, then chewy and tactile if a bit closed in the middle, with suggestions of darker fruits and mocha. Impressively broad on the back, showing a serious wave of finishing fruit, but the tannins are a bit sullen today. Give this very lush, long wine at least seven or eight years of cellaring.

Dark red; almost headily ripe and sweet to smell! Dense, rich, powerful, full bodied, tannic; a big, bold Clos Fourtet; very ripe in flavour, complex and subtle beneath the power, long and fragrant to finish. Very good in its powerful style. Needs 8-10 years ideally. 2022-35

Meaty, sweet nose and lots of energy. Pretty new school but not exaggerated. Should make a satisfying mature whole, but it’s a bit harsh on the end now. (JR)