This estate has come back strongly under new ownership, and the quality of the wines now exhibits the tremendous potential of this extraordinary terroir on the limestone plateau just outside the walls of St.-Emilion. Sampled three times from bottle, the 2003 Clos Fourtet is the finest wine I have ever tasted from this estate. Made in a full-bodied, extravagantly rich style, it is just beginning to close down, but it is easy to see the layers of concentrated black cherry, plum, and licorice-infused fruit. There is also a subtle hint of charcoal as well as loads of mineral, flower, blackberry, and creme de cassis characteristics. This full-flavored, opulent, glycerin-filled 2003 offers impressive richness, silky tannin, and a long, 45+ second finish. It will benefit from 2-3 years of bottle age, and drink well for two decades or more.

Tasted at Bordeaux Index’s “10-Year On” tasting in London. The Clos Fourtet 2003 has a lifted, perfumed, more floral nose than the Figeac. It seems smudged at first but musters more clarity with aeration – black cherries, dried violet and a slight balsamic note. The palate is medium-bodied with fine delineation. This is certainly one of the better Saint Emilion wines of the vintage with a gentle grip, firm tannins and fine focus. There is a little dryness towards the finish and it fades a little in the glass, but this Clos Fourtet is drinking well now. Tasted March 2013.