With 400 years of history and Ausone within a stone's throw, St Emilion's La Gaffeliere is a compelling story. Not only this but the wines are restrained and fine, fine, fine. They reveal a welcome lightness of touch in the winery and sport very fresh, pure black fruits and lively cleansing, mouth-watering acidity. This is supported by chewy yet fine-grained tannins and an elegant, persistent finish. A charming wine with bright energy.

This is well done with a lovely center palate of blueberries, chocolate, and orange peel. Full and round with polished tannins.

One of the oldest family-owned vineyards in St.-Emilion, La Gaffeliere has been owned by the same family since the 1400s. The 2011 performed slightly differently in multiple tastings, but overall, it appears to be an outstanding, elegant, restrained, somewhat austere, but impressively built wine. The final blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc produced nearly 5,000 cases from their 42+ acre vineyard. The wine exhibits lots of earthy, balsam, resiny notes interwoven with red and black currants, cedar and underbrush. This elegant, dense, medium to full-bodied St.-Emilion should drink nicely for 15-20 years.

Deep ruby-red. Perfumed red cherry, raspberry, violet and licorice on the nose. Tangy, rich and deep, with vibrant acidity lifting the red fruit and mineral flavors. Finishes smooth, bright and long. I find this offers a rare combination (for 2011) of generosity of texture and grip. "We plan to increase the percentage of cabernet franc we use here," said winemaker Stephane Derenoncourt. Currently, the wine is 85% merlot and 15% cabernet franc.

Rather ripe, flashy style, with a slightly gushy feel to the blackberry, plum and black cherry flavors, which are mashed together. Lots of perfumy mocha on the finish. A little more sizzle than steak in the end though.-J.M.

This has a plush, rather oaky bouquet with cassis and blueberry fruit. It is pure but there is not much depth and complexity. The palate is medium-bodied with a very smooth entry, almost chocolaty in texture but the tannins seem a little dry and mealy towards the worked finish. Tasted April 2012.

Toasty dark fruit. Then more savoury on the palate. Elegant dry tannins, there's refinement here without any attempt to crowd-please. Lithe and dark and long and savoury. (JH)

Drink 2017-2026 Intense, dark cherry crimson, ripe cherry aromas, intense but not very fragrant. Notes of violets and oak char. Lots of sweet oak on the palate, toasty. Smooth, sweet, rich. (JH)