Lots of sweet Christmas fruitcake notes intermixed with black cherry, black currant, licorice and incense jump from the glass of this dense purple-colored wine. Medium to full-bodied with surprisingly soft, round tannins and a beautiful mid-palate, the 2012 does not deviate much from the estate’s elegant, racy style. This beauty can be drunk early or aged for 15 or more years. This is an impressive offering from proprietor Count Leo Malet De Roquefort (whose family dates back to the 1400s). The 2012 La Gaffeliere achieved 14% natural alcohol, which, while relatively high for a 2012, is not up to the remarkable levels achieved in 2010 or 2009. The harvest occurred between October 4 and 16, and the final blend was 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc.

Very elegant kirsch liqueur-like notes mixed with licorice, spice and earth jump from the glass of this famous St.-Emilion, long-owned by the Malet Roquefort family. A blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc (14% alcohol), this has slightly more acidity and structure than some St.-Emilions. The limestone-dominated terroir comes through in the wine’s striking and very powerful minerality. It is medium-bodied, elegant, tightly knit and probably in need of 2-4 years of bottle age. It should drink well for the following 15 years.

Dark ruby. Plum, cassis and coffee on the nose. Smooth and suave on entry, then turns austere and tougher in the middle. This concentrated but brooding wine needs time in barrel for its strawberry and floral flavors to expand. The finish is youthfully chewy and long.

A wine with pretty cherry and plum character with hints of flowers. Medium body, with fine tannins and a fresh finish. Very fine tannins.

The Gaffeliere has a ripe candied nose that is missing a little cohesion at the moment. It is quite exotic for a 2012, very floral with orange blossom developing with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly tough tannins on the entry and the oak is a little jarring against the fruit. There is a decent wine here, but it needs to become more focused during the barrel ageing to merit a higher score. Tasted April 2013.

Drink 2017-2025 Deep dark cherry. Restrained fresh cherry aroma. Good fruit depth but a bit hard/flat at the end. Should come round though. (JH)