Pale straw-yellow. Very reticent scents of peach, pear and spearmint are less forthcoming than those of the Chevalier-Montrachet bottlings. Fat, saline and slightly disjointed in the early going; in a very rich but adamantly dry style. Shows full ripeness supported by penetrating acidity but this infant is not yet expressive or particularly complex. Strong minerality and building acidity on the tactile back end will require time to harmonize with the wine's fruit.

‘Up to’ 15% new oak. Savoury nose with a hint of oak. Very solid and chewy and with real depth – but is there enough for €344.91 (sic) a bottle ex cellar? Some intensity, some definite sweetness and some spice, but not really enough drama for the price. Solid stuff but it’s a wine I can imagine being included in a comparative tasting of Montrachets and being in the middle of the pack. Builds on the palate though… (JR)