The 2017 Meursault Désirée wafts from the glass with appealing aromas of ripe lemons, orange blossom, pastry cream and beeswax. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and gourmand, underpinned by succulent but ripe acids. This younger vine cuvée—the parcel was replanted in 2007-2008 and made its comeback with the 2012 vintage—hasn't yet attained the fleshy amplitude that used to distinguish it, but it makes progress every year. It hails from a warm site near Santenots, just below Meursault's campground.

Would be called Santenots premier cru if red. And it could be called Les Plures premier cru but he likes to use this old name that was not registered as premier cru for some reason. An early spot. Need to do a green harvest here because the vines are quite young – 10 years old. In tank. Ripe and spicy on the nose. Really savoury and almost sour in character. Broad and full, just enough freshness. Really spicy on the finish and the acidity is hidden by the richness. (JH)