Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting, the 2014 Montrachet Grand Cru from Domaine des Comtes Lafon has a clean and fresh bouquet, perhaps just a bit too much lime for my liking, although there is mineralité tucked in just behind. The palate is fresh and saline on the entry with a superb line of acidity. There is weight and presence to this Montrachet, and it gains weight and delivers a knockout, extremely persistent finish tinged with lemon thyme and sherbet. Though a little disjointed at present, I suspect this will turn into a wonderful Montrachet with style and class. But be warned that it will require several years in bottle.

Bright yellow. Knockout nose combines pineapple, flowers and a buttery suggestion of reduction. Offers outstanding sweetness and fullness without weight, conveying a powerful, building impression of salty dry extract. For all its richness of fruit, this wine boasts outstanding inner-mouth tension. Mounts inexorably on the aftertaste. The crop level here was a decent-for-the-vintage 30 hectoliters per hectare and Lafon told me these grapes were "among the most beautiful I've ever seen."