Tasted blind, Lafon's 2015 Montrachet Grand Cru displays incredible potential, unfurling in the glass with a classy bouquet of buttered Meyer lemons, toasted nuts, dried white flowers and mandarin oil. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, richly textural but tangy, with a deep, tight-knit core, excellent concentration and a long, pure finish. An hour later, this Montrachet was still filling out, acquiring more dimension along with subtly honeyed aromatic top notes, so I suspect my score will prove conservative.

(this was the first 2015 to finish its alcoholic and malolactic fermentations, at the end of November): Musky, alluring scents of lemon, clove, iodine and smoky minerality are complicated by a leesy element. Offers a rare combination of solidity and energy, showing a tannic structure that reminded me of a red wine. The wine's strong phenolic character is supported by its sheer density of material, but despite its inherent balance this Montrachet will require extended cellaring.

Cask sample. Very winning and rich on the nose with wonderful richness on the palate. Bright and rich not at all heavy. (JR)