The 2011 Meursault 1er Cru Goutte d’Or has similar clay to Porusots that lends them similar weight. It has a complex nose of lime flower, quince and hazelnut that gains intensity in the glass. The palate is actually quite similar to the Porusots on the entry, but for me, the finish shows superior tension and poise. This is one of Dominique’s finest. Drink 2014-2028. It was great to see Dominique Lafon three weeks after meeting him in Macon, this time back in Meursault. That semi-pornographic, licentious wine advertisement still hung on the office wall (those that have been there know what I mean) and a cigarette butt drooped from Dominique’s mouth, possibly the same one he lit when I bid him farewell back in Macon. If you added up all the charisma and charm in Bordeaux it still would amount to less than Dominique Lafon. I have tasted at this address for over a decade, but this marked the first time I had been presented his complete set of Premier Cru Meursault wines since his acquisition from Domaine Manuel with Jean-Marc Roulot. He remarked that possibly with the exception of a negociant, he is the only vigneron with all six top-tier Premier Crus south of the village. Dominique opened his full range of 2011s, including the Montrachet, which he avowed to polish off with a fish supper that night. How I would have loved to join him. Needless to say, this was an exemplary set of 2011s that do not disappoint. While like many others he concedes that 2010s have the upper hand and are likely to outlive them, he admires the 2011s for their approachability and charm. Importer: Becky Wassermann Selections (Le Serbet); www.leserbet.com

The 2011 Meursault Goutte d'Or is beautiful, ample and resonant on the palate. A wine first and foremost of texture, the 2011 is virtually impossible to resist in its youth. Pear, white peach and a gentle hint of spice frame a creamy, ample finish. What a pretty Meursault this is.