The 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape is unquestionably the greatest wine made from this estate to date and surpasses the 1998, 2007, and 2010. Checking in as a normal blend of 75% Grenache, 10% each of Syrah and Mourvèdre, and the balance Cinsault, it offers a heavenly bouquet of blackcurrants, ground pepper, new saddle leather, garrigue, and an assortment of exotic spices. Deep, full-bodied, incredibly concentrated, yet with the purity, elegance, and finesse that makes this vintage so special, it can be drunk any time over the coming two decades or more. Bravo!

My favorite of the Vieux Donjons on this visit, the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape is outperforming its early showings. Dark-fruited and earthy, it's at the beginning of what will likely be two decades of drinkability. Full-bodied, rich and velvety, it boasts great texture and ample length, plus some transfixing hints of licorice and fine suede on the finish.

Vivid ruby-red. An exotically perfumed, expressive nose evokes ripe cherry and black raspberry, and cola, licorice and floral pastille notes add complexity. Shows impressive depth as well as energy on the palate, offering sweet dark fruit, lavender and spicecake flavors supported by a spine of juicy acidity. In a suave, graceful style for the vintage, showing outstanding clarity and a sexy floral nuance on the strikingly long finish, which features harmonious tannins and a sneaky mineral quality.

Fermented in concrete, then aged in foudre. No Cuvée Spéciale produced, just one wine. It's not terribly expressive on the nose at the moment. The palate is full and firm, a touch hard and tannic, though it should soften in time. Lovely weight and intensity though, showing real concentration and intensity of fruit, with a long finish. A muscular wine with real savoury thrust.

The full-bodied 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape is a solid effort. Blueberry, cherry and garrigue notes mark the nose, while the palate is firm but silky, with a fine balance between ripeness and grip. I've seen some internet criticism of this estate for moving to a riper, more modern style, but I don't understand that—unless good cellar hygiene is now considered a problem in certain circles. This is a relatively traditional, balanced example of Châteauneuf, with spicy, savory elements combined with generous fruit. A blend of 75% Grenache, 10% each Mourvèdre and Syrah and 5% Cinsault that weighs in at 14.8% alcohol, this foudre-aged wine should drink well for a couple of decades. JC

It was a delight to visit Claire Michel and her brother, François Michel, at this family domaine in the village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Both of their parents owned vineyards, so it's a decent-sized estate, with 16 hectares of vines (including a single hectare of white varieties). The first estate bottling took place in 1967, so the 2016 represents the 50th vintage. When François said the vintage is "a mix of 2009 and 2010," Claire chimed in to say, "Round like 2009," and François finished with "Structured like 2010." The white is a blend of Clairette and Roussanne that sees only stainless steel and never undergoes malolactic fermentation. The red is partially destemmed, fermented in concrete and aged in foudres. No 2008 was available for tasting, but I was offered the 2015 and 2010. I may have slightly underestimated the 2015 when I tasted it blind last year, but it was substantially similar to my previous note. The 2010, said Claire, "had a long period when it was closed. It's starting to open." As previous Wine Advocate reviews of this wine have noted, it may be the best wine ever made at this estate.

Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault. Mid-ruby with garnet tinges around the rim. Barnyardy aromas alongside leather, cigar smoke, thyme and rosemary. It's nice but not as impressive as some of the (much less expensive) Gigondas tasted just before this. (JRL)