Giacosa's 2004 Barolo Falletto is a rock star. The truth is that, if tasted alone, the white label Falletto could easily be mistaken for the Red Label Riserva. It is every bit that compelling. Intensely perfumed yet also towering in stature, the 2004 is simply magnificent. The main difference between the white label and red label is finesse in the tannin, which is a bit less polished here. But that is only because there is a comparison. Taken on its own, the Falletto is one of the very finest wines of the vintage. Elegance meets power. With a little advance aeration, the 2004 can be enjoyed young, but it is frankly best left alone for another few years, especially for readers who only own a few bottles. This is yet another 2004 that has really blossomed in bottle.

Giacosa’s 2004 Barolo Falletto is so compelling it will be hard not to drink it in its youth. This gorgeous Barolo reveals a deeply structured frame layered with sweet dark fruit, mint, spice and pine. At once delicate and powerful, it is a beautifully finessed wine that is sure to provide much pleasure. A recent bottle of the 1982 is a testament to the virtues of this great site as interpreted by Bruno Giacosa. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024. (Antonio Galloni)