The 2004 Barbaresco Rabajà is a total head-turner. In this tasting, its only competition is the Asili Red Label. Even so, the Rabajà is an absolutely captivating, vivid wine from the first taste. Vertical and imposing in its sense of structure, with explosive energy to back things up, the Rabajà simply has it all. Scents of lavender, exotic spices and dark fruit add to the wine's total allure and seductive power.

The 2004 Barbaresco Rabaja is off the charts. It boasts phenomenal richness and complexity in its dark, brooding aromatics and powerful structure, with suggestions of roses, tar, menthol, coffee beans and baking spices that emerge from the glass in an endless display of elegance married to sheer force. Although the Rabaja will be released as a white label non-Riserva, it is very close to Riserva-level quality. From barrel it revealed just a little less length than the Asili, It will be interesting to see how the Asili and Rabaja develop in bottle. I would not be surprised to see the Rabaja merit a higher score in another year or two. This magnificent wine will especially appeal to readers who enjoy a structured style of Barbaresco. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029. AG

(white label) Good medium red. Reticent, more reduced nose hints at game and minerals. Then fatter, sweeter and creamier in the mouth than the Santo Stefano; a step up in texture and richness. The limestone element brings energy and minerality, which extends the wine's rather fine-grained finish.