The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova has held up a little bit better than straight Brunello. Here, too, the aromatics are evolved, but there is just enough freshness to suggest the wine will hold on for another few years. The typically rich, bombastic Tenuta Nuova fruit is very much in evidence, and it is the wine's textural depth that is its one saving grace. Readers should finish off any remaining bottles sooner rather than later.

Love the balsamic, leather and ripe-fruit aromas here. Hints of grilled meat, too. Full-bodied, dense and powerful with dusty tannins and a long, powerful finish. A big and intense red still. Drink or hold.

Offers crushed berries, with flowers and sandalwood. The nose is reserved, but interesting. Full-bodied, with silky tannins and a long, long finish. Very tight and stylish. Racy and powerful. Needs time. Best after 2011. 6,750 cases made

“The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova reveals layers of dark perfumed fruit intermingled with French oak, spices, minerals, violets and licorice. The Tenuta Nuova is impressive mostly for its textural richness and sheer depth, both qualities it has in spades. The finish is long, sweet and pure. Here, too, the wine will need at least a few years in bottle before its full range of aromas and flavors emerges. Neri gave the Tenuta Nuova 30 months in medium-sized French oak tonneaux. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2024.”