The 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova from Casanova di Neri opens with a gorgeous blast of dark fruit, mocha, spice and new leather. The first impression is quite positive, but then the wine loses its persistence on the mid-palate and finish. It’s as if the wine is hollow; there just isn’t a whole lot of depth. The tannins also show a distinct element of astringency and torrefaction, like coffee beans that have been over-roasted. Time in the glass only brings out these qualities further. To be sure, these shortcomings are in some ways quite subtle, but it is precisely the details that separate the excellent from the truly great. Tasting some of the other wines made in a similar style only highlights the areas where the Tenuta Nuova is lacking. The 2010 isn’t a bad wine, but it could have been something more.

This is a wine with fabulous scale and depth, as well as perfectly polished and refined tannins and wonderful length. Full body, yet so balanced and refined. The combination of focused fruit, tight tannins and bright acidity gives this incredible length. What a wine? A new sensibility to the whole thing. Drink or hold.

The 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova is a protagonist of the vintage. The fruit is deep and dark with rich levels of extract, intensity and flavor. It goes far beyond your standard cherry and blackberry to include plum cake, spice bread and bacon-wrapped prune. Nothing is obvious or monochromatic about this wine. Everything is nuanced and ethereal. Tenuta Nuova is also distinguished by the linear mineral notes that are characteristic of this single-vineyard site. In 2010, those traits are especially well-defined and pronounced. The tannins reach a level of suppleness that is almost impossible to find in the sometimes prickly and acidic Sangiovese grape. If there is one thing Giacomo Neri has mastered, it is harvesting at optimal ripeness: He knows his property and his vines better than most and it shows. Collectors will want to put this wine aside ten years or longer. (Monica Larner)