The 2004 Masseto, one of my personal favorites, is positively stellar. I have always adored the 2004 for its silky tannins, stunning aromatic presence and total finesse, all of which are on display today. Beautifully pure to the long finish and profoundly beautiful in every way, the 2004 has it all. It was a textbook vintage that only presented one real challenge, and that was moderating the naturally high yields that resulted from an unblocking of energy the vines had held in store from the previous year. Where producers moderated yields, the wines are often stunning, as is very much the case here. If forced to choose only one vintage of Masseto I could own or drink it would be the 2004.

There is such precision and refinement to this Masseto with a freshness and deliciousness that makes you want to drink it now. It full to medium bodied, with lovely density and a bright acidity with fine tannins. Goes on for minutes on the finish. Drink or hold.

Shows wonderful aromas of flowers and berries, with hints of vanilla and Indian spices. Full-bodied and powerful, with layers of chewy tannins and a long, flawless finish. Compact and dense, yet racy and refined. Not the perfect 2001, but very close. Best after 2013. 2,680 cases made. BS

The stunning 2004 Masseto (100% Merlot) presents layers of sweet jammy dark fruit and mineral notes that burst forth from the glass with notable length, purity and delineation. It is a decidedly elegant and super-refined Masseto that continues to integrate its 100% new oak well, showing extraordinary class and fine, silky-textured tannins that caress the palate on the long finish. The 2004 will be hard to resist in its youth as it is incredibly delicious even now, yet it promises to develop gracefully to at least age 20. It is a phenomenal effort that is not to be missed. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2024. AG

The 2004 Masseto Toscana Rosso is brilliant deep red-ruby with only a hint of a pale rim. The captivating nose is really what launches this wine into the pantheon of all-time greatest wines you, I, or anyone else has ever tasted: a panoply of extremely concentrated, superripe aromas of blackberries, blueberry nectar, black cherry, sandalwood, sweet spices, minerals, cedsar, and truffle, all lifted by a bright violet top-note. Rich and almost opulent on entry, but brightly focused in the middle, with tightly-woven, remarkably silky tannins and harmonious acidity nicely framing the sweet, shapely, nectar-like black and red fruit flavours. Enticing inner-mouth perfume of uncommon intensity and purity really lifts the luscious flavours on the long, ultra-suave, multilayered and remarkably well-balanced finish. The 2004 vintage is one of the all-time greatest vintages for Tuscan Coast wines, and the 2004 Masseto confirms just how great it was, and then some. In ultimate analysis, the 2004 Masseto is really one of those once in a lifetime wines the very first sip of which tells you that you are in the presence of greatness. Aged two years in 100% French oak barriques, this wine was still made at Ornellaia’s winery (today’s Masseto is made at its own winery at the center of the vineyard). Drinking window: now-2040. Ian D'Agata Terroirsense.com May 2022