Every bit as monumental as I had hoped, Salvioni's 2006 Brunello di Montalcino is rich, towering and explosive, with fabulous depth and intensity. Dark cherry, smoke, spice, leather and plum gradually open up in a powerful Brunello that still needs time to soften. Epic in its dimension, the 2006 remains one of the very best vintages ever made here.

Also boasting a traditional winemaking approach, I thought that Salvioni's 2006 Brunello di Montalcino has held together much better than the 2006 Brunello we tasted from Cerbaiona. This is a beautiful wine that delivers a more controlled and consistent evolution. It drinks beautifully right now, but the tonic freshness of the fruit implies that it still has a long way to go. The bouquet opens to fine layers of dried fruit, licorice and balsam herb. Background tones include crushed mineral, tar, juniper and cured bresaola. There is enormous integrity here with energy and zesty crispness at the back. The tannins have been curbed and now show their softness and silkiest form. This is a true beauty and is one of the wines that most delighted me in this tasting. ML