Giancarlo Pacenti’s 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Vecchie Vigne is another superb wine. The contours are more modern and the fruit leans towards the darker end of spectrum, yet all the elements are wonderfully in balance. Surprisingly open and expressive for a young Brunello, the 2010 is sure to improve with a little more time in the bottle. All of the Pacenti signatures are in place, though, and the house style is unmistakable.

Complex aromas of walnut, dark fruit, stone, oyster shell, chalk and dried fruits. This shows fabulous intensity and balance with layer upon layer of fruit and polished tannins. Builds on the palate. It goes on for minutes. Better in 2019.

This brooding version is lean and sinewy in profile, with dusty, chewy tannins gripping the cherry and strawberry fruit. This comes around with air, showing more sweetness and balance. Best from 2019 through 2033. BS

The 2010 Brunello di Montalcino is made from a selection of fruit from the estate's older vines. The wine opens to a garnet-ruby color and savory aromas of cassis, dark cherry, smoked bacon and spice. It shows dense color and concentration with textured tannins and a generous mouthfeel. The wine's personality delivers high intensity and rich constitution. This wine needs a few more years of bottle age to flesh out further. (Monica Larner)