It’s not easy to follow the 1990 Riserva, but the 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is more than up to the challenge. Bright, translucent and beautifully focused throughout, the 2006 is all about energy and delineation. It is remarkably accessible for a young Soldera.

Soldera’s 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva has been utterly gorgeous on the many times I have tasted it. Expressive, floral and impeccably perfumed, the 2006 Riserva is surprisingly mid-weight and gracious in this vintage. Layers of sweet fruit with Burgundian overtones emerge as the wine gains depth and volume in the glass. Today, the 2006 is a delicate Brunello from Soldera rather than a powerhouse, but then again, these wines have a way of putting on weight in the bottle. I can’t wait to see how the 2006 develops over the coming years. Soldera fans know that there is sometimes more than one bottling of the Riserva. This is Lot F86, which is the Lot imported into the US. I also tasted E85, which is a bit firmer, but within the context of Soldera wines, these two bottlings are quite similar. (Antonio Galloni)

A good dose of air coaxes out the maturing aromas and flavors of sandalwood, leather, underbrush, sweet cherry and mineral. This intriguing red displays lightness and elegance without sacrificing structure or intensity. Features a savory finish. BS

As you can see from my photo of the wine stains representing the various bottles poured at this historic tasting, we had initially planned to pour Gianfranco Soldera's 1990 Brunello di Montalcino. Unfortunately, I deemed the bottles we sourced unfit for presentation and I opted for the 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva as backup. Despite the much younger vintage, this wine seemed like the oldest of the bunch based on appearance alone. Sangiovese has a hard time keeping its color intact with aging and this wine underlines that point. The bouquet was intact, on the other hand, with dried fruit, cola and balsam herb. There is an evolved quality with fine dustings of mineral and licorice that add depth and personality at the back. This is a classic vintage resulting in wines that are tight and compact at the back. These qualities will help to maintain the wine's progression over the next ten years.