Lots of intensity on the nose of blackberries, dried fruits, bark, mushroom and crushed stone. Full-bodied, medium-sweet with chewy velvety tannins. Just a baby now with so much to go, but approachable now at almost 20 years of age. Drinkable, but better in five or six years.

The 2003 Vintage Port comes in with 92 grams per liter of residual sugar. This is a big boy in terms of voluptuous fruit, but (at least as double decanted overnight), it is drinkable now, even if it still tightens noticeably as it sits in the glass. Make no mistake, though—it is nowhere near peak. This rather dry Fonseca is big and fat, yet there is also some concept of balance here, surprisingly. This very warm vintage wasn't exactly shy. The concentration easily counters the power, and it steadily acquired better balance as it sat and aired. In terms of complexity, there's no there there yet, if you'll allow the Gertrude Stein summary. In that sense, at least, it is far too young and needs another decade. Winemaker David Guimaraens told me that he thinks his grandchildren will be able to enjoy it, so there is no rush. Cellar this for another decade, at the least, more like 20 years if you like them softer and more complex. This will still improve, but it has some more questions to answer in the cellar. The price reflects current availability. Korbrand, the importer, indicated limited stocks are available in the USA as well as Portugal. There may be an official re-release as well. - Mark Squires, The Wine Advocate #232, August 2017