Could this be port of the vintage? A very ripe nose, floral with pronounced violets and blueberry. A decadent, harmonious palate - very focused with a svelte, cashmere texture. Touch of spice, tar and dark chocolate on the flamboyant finish. Very complex and a superb 2003 port. Extrovert, ostentatious, powerful and persuasive. Drink 2025-2050+ Tasted May 2005.

Lots of intensity on the nose of blackberries, dried fruits, bark, mushroom and crushed stone. Full-bodied, medium-sweet with chewy velvety tannins. Just a baby now with so much to go, but approachable now at almost 20 years of age. Drinkable, but better in five or six years.

Sporting an opaque, black-colored robe with dark purple trim, the 2003 Fonseca Vintage Port exhibits a nose of profound depth. Its sweet black mass of dark fruit and spice aromas leads to a character of immense depth, richness, and weight. Full-bodied, viscous, and almost impenetrable, this dense, backward port is powerful and exceptionally long in the finish. Possibly the most masculine Fonseca I’ve ever encountered, it coats the taster’s palate with licorice, jammy black fruits, and notes of chocolate that last for over a minute. This blockbuster will require at least three decades to fully blossom. Anticipated maturity: 2035-2060. Importer: Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 490-9300

The 2003 Vintage Port was aged for 21 months in wood and comes in at 92 grams of residual sugar. This is another oldie rereleased now. The Taylor's may be burlier and fresher, the Croft more nuanced and complex, but of the trio of 2003s in this report, this might well be the winner today. (Then again, it might not be; the comparison was certainly fun.) It has the most elegance, freshness and nuance, far younger than the Croft and more ready than the Taylor's. I can only say, I respect whatever choice you make; pick 'em. Personally, I lean to Taylor's in the longer run, but that is the least ready of the three.

The 2003 Vintage Port comes in with 92 grams per liter of residual sugar. This is a big boy in terms of voluptuous fruit, but (at least as double decanted overnight), it is drinkable now, even if it still tightens noticeably as it sits in the glass. Make no mistake, though—it is nowhere near peak. This rather dry Fonseca is big and fat, yet there is also some concept of balance here, surprisingly. This very warm vintage wasn't exactly shy. The concentration easily counters the power, and it steadily acquired better balance as it sat and aired. In terms of complexity, there's no there there yet, if you'll allow the Gertrude Stein summary. In that sense, at least, it is far too young and needs another decade. Winemaker David Guimaraens told me that he thinks his grandchildren will be able to enjoy it, so there is no rush. Cellar this for another decade, at the least, more like 20 years if you like them softer and more complex. This will still improve, but it has some more questions to answer in the cellar. The price reflects current availability. Korbrand, the importer, indicated limited stocks are available in the USA as well as Portugal. There may be an official re-release as well. - Mark Squires, The Wine Advocate #232, August 2017

Dense, dark blackish ruby. Interesting putty note on the nose. Very sweet and mouth-filling. You have to struggle a bit to see the tannins underneath all that sweet fruit but it’s certainly Fonseca and capable of delivering massive pleasure eventually. Just a little hot on the end. (JR)