The 1963 Single Harvest Tawny Port, not yet bottled when seen and set for release in 2019, is a field blend that comes in with 127 grams of residual sugar. A very different wine stylistically than the overachieving 1994, this isn't as rich in a way, but it has a few cards up its sleeve. It adds more of that wonderful complexity that great old Tawnies acquire—molasses, dark chocolate, seared caramel. It's rather fresh for the age too. It has plenty of power and fine acidity supporting the fruit as well. This is pretty beautiful. It will last indefinitely, barring cork failure. The price was not set yet.

The 1963 Single Harvest Tawny Port from Graham’s is a bottling of four barrels with an average age of 75 years. It has a slightly paler colour than the 1969 from Cockburn’s tasted alongside and feels conservative by comparison, offering subtle walnut, marmalade, cigar humidor and mandarin. The palate is medium-bodied with an attacking, feisty, spicy opening. There are hints of cumin and marmalade, joined by clove and ginger towards the cohesive finish. The vigour demonstrated by the palate actually makes me desire more fireworks from the aromatics. Tasted at the Symington Tawny Port tasting at the Tower of London.