The Tasting Room with Katherine Fisher: A Journey Through Champagne
Bordeaux Index
22 November 2024
Welcome to 'The Tasting Room', a series where members of the Bordeaux Index team talk us through what they're tasting, drinking and enjoying. In this article we hear from Katherine Fisher, our Champagne Buyer, on her recent trip to the region.
Just three months into my role as Champagne buyer at Bordeaux Index, I found myself embarking on a whirlwind trip to visit some of the biggest stars in the LVMH portfolio: the legendary maisons of Krug, Dom Pérignon, Veuve Clicquot, and Ruinart. At Bordeaux Index, Champagne is more than just bubbles - it’s a serious passion. As one of the leading global sellers of Champagne, we taste our fair share of fizz in the office, often with producers themselves. But nothing compares to stepping into the cellars and tasting the wines where they were born, (a feeling not even a bought of unfortunate food poisoning from the night before could dampen)!
The steely October skies and persistent drizzle were the backdrop to our stay, a grim reminder of the challenging 2024 growing season in Champagne and indeed the rest of France. While mildew and tough weather threatened yields, the quality of the 2024 looks outstanding - a silver lining that’s left producers both relieved and optimistic. This trip was chance to taste across a range of blends and vintages, both old and new, reaffirming my belief that vintages such as 2004, 2006, and 2013 are all too often overlooked. For any eagle-eyed individual looking for some well-priced gems, these vintages are ripe for discovery.
As for the highlights, the 2010 Dom Ruinart was a clear standout - elegant, complex, and utterly breath-taking. It was one of the best bottles I tasted, alongside Krug 2004, Clos du Mesnil 2006, and the radiant Dom Perignon P2 Rosé 1996. These are exceptional wines that you shouldn't hesitate to add to your collection.
Ruinart: Champagne’s Oldest Maison, Leading the Way
The first stop on my trip was to Ruinart, Champagne’s oldest Maison. This name is redefining its legacy by becoming a trailblazer in sustainability; from adopting lighter bottles and reducing its carbon footprint, to introducing recyclable, minimalist packaging. In its mission, Ruinart is setting new benchmarks for environmentally conscious winemaking - all while continuing to elevate the quality of its wines.
This mission is epitomised by the evolution of Dom Ruinart, their prestige Blanc de Blancs cuvée. Starting with the 2010 vintage, Dom Ruinart has been aged on cork rather than crown cap, a decision that slows the ageing process and deepens the wine’s complexity. The difference is striking when comparing the 2010 and 2013 vintages to older releases.
The 2010 Dom Ruinart is a masterpiece - rich, layered, and bursting with vitality - while the 2013 dazzles with its razor-sharp precision and chalky elegance. Both are extraordinary, but the 2010 edges it for me with its sheer depth and energy. If you haven’t yet explored these vintages, they’re a stunning testament to where this historic house is headed.
Krug: New Directions
Our visit began in the vineyards of Trépail and continued at the historic Krug family home in Reims. Until very recently, this was the beating heart of Krug’s operations - its cellars, dug in 1870, housed everything from vinification to ageing.
First fermentation at Krug is always conducted in old oak barrels on a meticulous plot-by-plot basis. Malolactic fermentation is never induced but may occur naturally, preserving the individuality of each plot. In an obsessive attention to detail, base reserve wines are then stored in stainless steel tanks, separated by plot in their hundreds. This precision is now set to reach even greater heights with the unveiling of Krug’s brand-new, state-of-the-art winery in Ambonnay. Moving their extensive reserve wine collection from the old cellars to this modern facility will be a monumental task, but the rewards are clear: even greater parcellation and precision in blending to elevate their wines further.
Blending is, after all, Krug’s raison d’être. On my visit they told me of their bold decision to forego a vintage release from the lauded 2012 harvest—a vintage widely hailed as one of the finest in recent memory. Instead, Krug has dedicated all this exceptional fruit to its Editions, reaffirming their commitment to making these blends the flagship of the house.
Dom Pérignon: A Masterclass in Plénitude
Tasting Dom Pérignon with technical winemaker Amine Ghanem was an unforgettable deep dive into the nuances of these Champagnes. As the house expert on cork ageing and yeast, Amine was the ideal guide for an in-depth comparison of P1 and P2, or Plénitude 1 and 2.
The distinction between these two expressions lies in their aging. P1, representing the first Plénitude, spends around eight years on lees and is the version most recognised as the vintage Dom Pérignon. P2, on the other hand, is aged 15-20 years, delivering greater depth, complexity, and textural richness. Interestingly, the two also differ in closure: P1 is aged under crown cap, while P2 and the even rarer P3 (Plénitude 3) are matured under natural cork. This extended reductive maturation, combined with the house's proprietary yeast strains developed in the 1970s, lends Dom Pérignon its unmistakable style.
Amine’s parting wisdom: stock up on the 2013 vintage:
“I’ve not seen a growing season like it since, and with a changing climate, I doubt we ever will again. It’s a vintage that echoes the greatness of 1988 or 1996, and one day, bottles of 2013 will be treasures.
Shop 2013 Dom Pérignon
Veuve Clicquot: Innovation Rooted in History
Visiting Veuve Clicquot offered a glimpse into the history and innovation that define this Maison. With roots reaching back to the 1700s, Veuve Clicquot has shaped the world of Champagne with its pioneering techniques. The story begins with Madame Barbe-Nicole Clicquot, who became a widow at just 27 years old in 1805. Undeterred by challenges like poor harvests and Napoleonic wars, she revolutionised Champagne, inventing the riddling table in 1816 and introducing the first ever vintage Champagne in 1810. Her entrepreneurial spirit and focus on Pinot Noir established the backbone of the house's style.
The scale of Veuve Clicquot is equally impressive. The Maison owns 400 hectares of vineyards and works with over 1,000 growers, managing half of the region’s historic chalk caves (crayères) where treasures like the 1904 vintage are stored. Yellow Label is has become a huge global success, accounting for more than 20 million bottles annually and over half of all Champagne imported into the U.S!
In the deep chalk crayères, we visited Veuve’s Cave Privée Collection, where wines are aged on lees for 20-30 years before disgorgement. The Maison holds back 5,000 bottles in select years, with the oldest wine on lees dating back to 1928.
A technical tasting of the Veuve Cliquot vins clairs and reserve wines with the knowledgeable Lison Blanchemanche, one of the winemakers at the House, shows just how this talented team ensure incredible consistency on a grand scale.
The Roundup
This trip was truly eye-opening and a massive thank you to the houses for their wonderful hospitality and wisdom. Having tasted a wide selection of wines, it's hard to pick just one favourite, but I believe that the 2004 vintage is truly one of elegance and beauty.
Krug's 2004 Vintage is absolutely mesmerizing. Layers of bright, chiseled fruit open up effortlessly as the wine fleshes out with time in the glass. Persistent and beautifully focused, with a translucent sense of energy, the 2004 captures all the best qualities of the year. Moreover, the 2004 is clearly superior to the consistently underwhelming 2002 and the best Krug Vintage since 1996. Readers who can find it should not hesitate, as it is a magical bottle. - Antonio Galloni, 97pts
What a privilege to experience these legendary houses first-hand. Sometimes the day-job isn’t so bad…