2004 Vintage Champagne Tasting: 20 Years On
Bordeaux Index
31 May 2024
On Wednesday 22nd May we hosted our 20 Years On Vintage Champagne Tasting showcasing the exceptional 2004 vintage. Here we share our comprehensive report, full list of tasting notes and detail on the wines' remarkable evolution over the past two decades
2004 VINTAGE CHAMPAGNE
The 20 Years On Vintage Champagne Tasting featured a line up of 25 prestige cuvées that could only be described as the ultimate assembly of exceptional champagnes. Despite the challenge of generalising across such a diverse array of wines, a common thread was remarkable youth and elegance, with a rich and complex inner core.
The 2004 vintage was a vintage that combined both quality and quantity. Overall, the wines produced were elegant and capable of both early-drinking and cellaring, and many of these wines are hitting their optimum drinking window now. As Charles Philipponnat noted, he has always preferred the 2004 vintage to the hyped slightly older brother 2002 vintage in terms of elegance and style, and actually in time the wines from 2004 might certainly have potential in many cases to surpass or sit at the same level as the 2002 wines.
These words echoed throughout the tasting. With the overall cooler climatic conditions for the 2004 vintage, the wonderful impact of the Indian summer to allow slow, gently ripening and with cooler nights maintaining acidity and bright fresh fruit, the resulting champagnes offered complexity, restraint and poise. At 20 years old many of the 2004's were showing beautifully, but with decades of age-ability for those that love older champagne.
It’s rare to taste champagne horizontally and it was fascinating to examine the 2004 vintage from the region’s big names in an array of formats and styles. There was not an underachiever in the room and the tasting further showed the pedigree of the 2004 vintage. This is a vintage you want to stock up on now for the long haul, while prices are where they are.
2004 VINTAGE: GROWING SEASON
2004 started with a slightly cooler than average spring, allowing the vines an extended resting period before brightening skies and warmer weather facilitated a very healthy and successful budburst and flowering, indicating a higher-than-average yield for the vintage.
Following a warm and
extremely sunny summer, some producers found it necessary to green harvest to
prevent overproduction and curb the overabundance of vegetative growth. As 2003
had been so hot and dry, many vineyards were experiencing low water levels in
the soils, resulting in some water stress, which increased the concentration
within the fruit. August was atypical, with unseasonably chilly days and
periods of unexpected rainfall slowing down the ripening process, but then the
season turned. An Indian summer dominated September, resulting in near-perfect
phenolic ripeness across the region, and cooler nights maintained vital acidity
levels in the grapes.
The high-yielding and later-than-normal harvest was
welcomed by many producers, and the wines reflected the climatic conditions –
wonderfully elegant and restrained, but with concentration and weight on the
palate, stunning acidity, and fresh fruit aromas.
2004 VINTAGE: INVESTMENT
The 2004 vintage has distinguished itself as the best-performing vintage for Champagne over the past five years. The performance has been achieved as much by its resilience during economic downturns but also as a result of the focus it has received during market upswings. 2004 as a vintage rose by 75% across 2021 to late 2022, and then from October 2022 peak to today, the retracement of a portion of those gains has been on average 16% against 25% for 2008 and others. Although the 2004 only scores marginally behind the 2002 vintage, it is nearly 25% cheaper on average, making it a 'bargain' vintage comparatively.
2004 VINTAGE: BORDEAUX INDEX TOP PICKS
2004 Bollinger La Grande Année / £650 per 6 IB
“A really charming champagne it opens with almond butter, white flowers, and a little lemongrass on the nose. This gives red fruit accents with grilled pear and ginger biscuit on the palate. Beautiful focus and saline drive, with a delicate creamy mousse with apple skin bitterness on the finish - prime drinking.” 93pts Robert Mathias MW
2004 Dom Pérignon / £830 per 6 IB
“A lovely creamy nose of almond pastry, apple blossom, with a twist of crushed rock and spice. This is a mid-weight wine that feels a little more developed on the palate than some other wines in the line up, but delivers orchard fruit, a subtle, creamy mousse, and just a little dried herbs on the finish.” 93pts Robert Mathias MW
2004 Dom Pérignon Rose / £1,795 per 6 IB
“Beautifully precise, fresh and dried raspberry fruit with to touch of candied orange lift from the glass. This is a refreshing, lively wine with floral accents of cherry blossom, and rose petal, with quite a rounded palate of more red berry fruit. The finish is satiny and pure.” 93pts Robert Mathias MW
2004 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses / £940 per 6 IB
“This shows the benefit of patience in this vintage and also the privilege of terroir here, with apricot blossom, gingernut, apple pastry. It feels ripe with both orchard and stone fruit with a seamless texture on the palate with a little hazelnut butter. A little spiced apple and sinewy tension on the finish. Very bright and finessed.” 96pts Robert Mathias MW
2004 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne / £825 per 6 IB
“Certainly one of the wines of the tasting, this is such an impressive and detailed wine. The nose itself is just irresistible. The faintest hint of reduction, this is such an expressive champagne, with waves of crushed buttery biscuits, grilled apple, candied lemon, and burned butter. Stem ginger, honeysuckle, this gives more and more with time in the glass. It is finesse from start to finish with a subtle, creamy mousse, and so much vibrancy.” 98pts Robert Mathias MW
* indicative market price GBP and does not constitute a firm offer to sell
2004 VINTAGE: TASTING NOTES
2004 Bollinger La Grande Année
"Typical slightly bruised apple, toasty with hints of dried fruits, but still a slightly linear profile, fresh and long-term." 95pts Matthew O'Connell, CEO LiveTrade
"A really charming champagne it opens with almond butter, white flowers, and a little lemongrass on the nose. This gives red fruit accents with grilled pear and ginger biscuit on the palate. Beautiful focus and saline drive, with a delicate creamy mousse with apple skin bitterness on the finish - prime drinking." 93pts Robert Mathias MW
2004 Bollinger R.D. 2004
"Slightly rounder profile than the 04 GA, rich golden apple, soft toast and energising hints of peel and dark chocolate." 96+pts Matthew O'Connell, CEO LiveTrade
"Showing tertiary notes of white truffle, grilled almonds, with some stem ginger this is a richer profile to the R.D. The palate has notes of lemon meringue pie, burned butter with a fine line of acidity behind the creamy textured mousse. Candied lemon and lemon oil too - this is quite a dense wine on the palate ending with creamy brioche richness and white nougat." 94pts Robert Mathias MW
Bollinger R.D. 2004 Magnum
"Very fresh and lively, confit lemon alongside ripe apple, only hints of toast and pastry with citrus and mineral notes still prominent." 98pts Matthew O'Connell, CEO LiveTrade
"The magnum format delivers real freshness and verve. Enticing nose which opens with lemon blossom, dried white flowers, butter biscuit, and chalk dust. The development notes of white truffle, caramelised apple, with a alluring waft of almond pastry make this quite irresistible. Real persistence on the delicate seamless mousse. Zesty and pure on the palate, this is tense but with a sense of power and gravitas on the palate." 95+pts Robert Mathias MW
Bollinger Vieilles Vignes Francaises Blanc de Noirs 2004
"Very light golden colour, rich red and golden apple, notes of honeyed apricot, a toasty burnished background with hints of ginger & walnuts." 96pts Matthew O'Connell, CEO LiveTrade
"This shows quite evolved in aromas and colour, opening with finely delineated beurre noisette, toasted almonds, grilled caramalised apple, with spiced notes of cinnamon and liquorice. There is vinous weight on the palate, honey soaked fruit, and mineral accent of wet stones with a lift of pressed honeysuckle. While it does not show the energy and verve of other top wines of this vintage, there is real intensity and such finesse to the mousse." 96pts Robert Mathias MW
Bollinger La Grande Année Rosé 2004
"The red fruit has a deeper pitch – strawberry with a darker raspberry alongside burnished apple, light toast and porty elements. Nicely positioned to drink now." 94pts Matthew O'Connell, CEO LiveTrade
"Still charming and fresh, this delivers crushed red berries, red apple, and pink grapefruit. This shows tension and energy on the palate with a little citrus peel note closing in on the end of the palate. Cherry blossom and dried red flowers lift on the finish." 91pts Robert Mathias MW
Charles Heidsieck Blanc de Millenaires 2004
"Lively profile – chalky but with lightly candied fruit, quite deep but fresh citrus and white peach tones; only slight evolution showing in drizzled honey." 95pts Matthew O'Connell, CEO LiveTrade
"Generosity here that is difficult to resist. Toast dripping in butter, fresh and honey soaked apricots a fine balance of autolytic and fruit aromas. The palate is broad, creamy and rounded giving grilled apple and orchard fruits. Still a fine bead of acidity pulsing through the wine, it finishes with a lovely apple oil and apricot skin note with real persistence." 95pts Robert Mathias MW
Dom Pérignon 2004
"This has always been a notably fresh and elegant, but lighter version of Dom Perignon, and so it shows here. There is a toasty background with only emerging pastry hints." 93pts Matthew O'Connell, CEO of LiveTrade
"A lovely creamy nose of almond pastry, apple blossom, with a twist of crushed rock and spice. This is a mid-weight wine that feels a little more developed on the palate than some other wines in the line up, but delivers orchard fruit, a subtle, creamy mousse, and just a little dried herbs on the finish." 93pts Robert Mathias MW
Dom Pérignon P2, Brut 2004
"Rounder and also deeper than the original 04. More of a fruit forward and mineral, saline character. A very good example of the benefit of P2." 96pts Matthew O'Connell, CEO LiveTrade
Dom Pérignon Rosé 2004
"A very elegant DPR, with ripe and creamy but ultimately restrained strawberry and soft cherry, alongside fresh green apple and lovely notes." 97pts Matthew O'Connell, CEO LiveTrade
"Giving classic notes of a little flinty reduction and crushed rock minerality, this is a tense and tightly wound wine offering white flowers, earl grey tea and orchard fruit. So fine with the most delicate and persistent mousse this glides effortlessly across the palate. Real focus here, with a fine chalky finish, very refined and quite delicious!" 93pts Robert Mathias MW
Dom Ruinart 2004
"Rich and round but fresh green apples, an attractive peel character on a chalky background, hints of pastry showing through." 96pts Matthew O'Connell, CEO LiveTrade
"Broad and expressive, this gives lemon curd, butter brioche, and toasted hazelnut. Prime drinking, this has candied lemon, a little caramelised apple with a pulse of acidity behind. Subtle creaminess and biscuit crumb on the finish." 95pts Robert Mathias MW
Dom Ruinart Rosé 2004
"The red fruits bring weight vs the 04 PR - on the one hand there is attractive evolution (meatiness and a slightly floral profile), but perhaps at the expense of the soft freshness of the white." 94pts Matthew O'Connell, CEO LiveTrade
"This opens with spiced red berry fruits with accents of nutmeg and Asian spices. There is a subtle floral note of dried rose petal too. The palate is creamy and quite broad with ripe red berry fruits, a hint of the exotic, as well as honey soaked orchard fruit with a little white grapefruit pith. Creamy red berry fruit, toast, and cherry blossom. White grapefruit, citrus peel, a little honey here as well. Finishes quite broad and expressive." 93pts Robert Mathias MW
Krug 2004
"I have always liked 04 Krug and this is a good showing - fresh profile but rich, golden fruit and pastry with a prominent gingery note. Compelling now but built to age further." 97pts Matthew O'Connell, CEO LiveTrade
"A 'wow' wine - potentially even better than, or certainly neck and neck with the 2002. The Krug 2004 is still so tense and vibrant, a little air helps to unlock its secrets. There is very precise delineation on both the nose and palate showing lemongrass, verbena, and grilled almond brioche. Still very youthful, the wine gives notes of honeysuckle, orchard fruit, lemon biscuit crumb, with marzipan and a hint of chalk dust. It ends with the most delicious subtle notes of grilled hazelnut and sourdough toast." 97pts Robert Mathias MW
Laurent Perrier 2004
"A still fresh though softer and more evolved profile - lemon confit and peach against a lightly honeyed and pastry backdrop." 90pts Matthew O'Connell, CEO LiveTrade
"This is charming and expressive drinking in its prime right now. There is honey steeped orchard fruit, apple pastry, with a lift of apricot blossom. The palate is creamy and round giving pear and quince notes, finishing slightly loose knit." 92pts Robert Mathias MW
Laurent Perrier Alexandra Rosé Magnum
"Quite ripe strawberry alongside both red and green apple, fleshy fresh and creamy, but not at all at the expense of freshness. Both pretty and substantial." 95pts Matthew O'Connell, CEO LiveTrade
"A really fine rosé, the cuvée Alexandra is poised from start to finish. Spiced cherry, grilled herbs, toast and pastry notes are carefully delineated and beautifully balanced. A lot of energy and life ahead of it, this has plenty of red berry fruits, and grilled white peach. Finishing with a seamless and satiny texture with a lift of jasmine flowers and orange blossom." 95pts Robert Mathias MW
Louis Roederer Cristal 2004
"Attractive, toasty profile with slightly burnished apple and quite a rich pastry streak; both showing evolution (soft toffee, slight orange tones) but still fresh. I think I've had better bottles though." 96pts Matthew O'Connell, CEO of LiveTrade
"Cristal 2004 is opening up into a real gem - there is a real sense of purity and drive from the first sip. It opens with lemon oil, a little gunflint, toast, ginger and lemon grass. While it opens with real delicacy it gains momentum on the palate to show both power and precision. Floral definition of lemon blossom and honeysuckle notes with a kiss of fresh and grilled almond on the finish. So very pure and long, this is only getting going." 98pts Robert Mathias MW
Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé 2004
"Notably elegant - fine and creamy mousse over a strawberry and green apple fruit, lightly toasted with honey and pastry tones. The finish brings a little weight and richness. Compelling." 98pts Matthew O'Connell, CEO of LiveTrade
"There is incredible finesse and refinement to the Cristal Rosé it is quite simply jaw-dropping. Cranberry, cherry blossom, wet rocks, it is subtle and complex in equal measure. There is delicate spiced fruit, a little orange peel, with an accent of white pepper. What most captures the imagination with this wine is the structure, it opens very focused, it touches the palate with a satiny caress and then, as if by surprise, a rapier blade of tension cuts back across the palate delivering most memorable pulse of salinity hitting all the high notes." 99pts Robert Mathias MW
Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Collection 2004
"One of the more evolved profiles - somewhat deeper toast, soft cooked apple, pastry and a citrus streak." 91pts Matthew O'Connell, CEO of LiveTrade
"Lots to like about this wine, it gives creamy, lemon pastry, with toasted hazelnuts and plenty of orchard fruit. The palate is creamy and in a lovely place right now showing lemon butter, dried apple, white flowers and a fresh lift of acidity on the finish. Very charming." 93pts Robert Mathias MW
Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 2004
"One of the outright riper profiles, a more golden quality to the fruit, with slightly darker honey and ginger tones. Meaty elements energising nicely." 95+ Matthew O'Connell, CEO of LiveTrade
"This shows the benefit of patience in this vintage and also the privilege of terroir here, with apricot blossom, gingernut, apple pastry. It feels ripe with both orchard and stone fruit with a seamless texture on the palate with a little hazelnut butter. A little spiced apple and sinewy tension on the finish. Very bright and finessed." 96pts Robert Mathias MW
Pol Roger Vintage 2004
"Also showing a lot more evolution, toast at the forefront, creamy pastry with hints of peach. Soft and slightly honeyed." 91pts Matthew O'Connell, CEO of LiveTrade
This shows more ripeness and power than expected from this vintage, this is really charming and difficult to resist right now. Opening with almond blossom, buttered stewed apple, with accents of ginger and pasty. There is lovely purity and freshness here, with a little crème caramel, and a twist of dried herbs on the finish. Drink and enjoy! 92pts Robert Mathias MW
Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill 2004
"Rounded, creamy profile with golden tones on green apple alongside riper redder elements and a little solid chalkiness. Fresh and perhaps a little coiled still." 95+pts Matthew O'Connell, CEO of LiveTrade
Pol Roger Winston Churchill Magnum 2004
"Ultra fresh with rich, with more citrus and lighter toast elements." 96pts Matthew O'Connell, CEO of LiveTrade
"So creamy and beautiful this opens with beurre noisette, almond pastry, apple, and some stone fruits. There is real tension and energy on the palate, showing some power and focus. Grilled stone fruits, ginger and a little verbena, with complexity from sourdough bread and grilled hazelnut. This has bags of freshness and a caressing creamy mousse. Drink over the next 10 years." 94pts Robert Mathias MW
Salon Champagne 2004
"Still a pale colour, the nose is one of ripe but restrained apple with cool, chalky & white floral elements, the palate is in a similar vein, with light toast and a real solid matter profile to it." 98pts Matthew O'Connell, CEO of LiveTrade
"This is high-toned, clearly with a great deal of detail. Tight citrus notes, a subtle herbal twist, with lemon shortbread, citrus peel and lemon oil. Build on purity and tension, this is impressive in the precision and poise on the palate with a driving bead of acidity leaning through the palate. The finish gives accents of ginger, honeysuckle and a little toasted hazelnut. This is extremely impressive, with crystalline purity. 96pts Robert Mathias MW
Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 2004
"Showing possibly a little awkwardly at the moment – softening apple and citrus, on buttery toasts, a somewhat pithy element." 94pts Matthew O'Connell, CEO of LiveTrade
"Certainly one of the wines of the tasting, this is such an impressive and detailed wine. The nose itself is just irresistible. The faintest hint of reduction, this is such an expressive champagne, with waves of crushed buttery biscuits, grilled apple, candied lemon, and burned butter. Stem ginger, honeysuckle, this gives more and more with time in the glass. It is finesse from start to finish with a subtle, creamy mousse, and so much vibrancy." 98pts Robert Mathias MW
Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rosé 2004
"Notably sweet red fruits overlaid onto the softening apple and citrus, seemingly livelier than the 04 Comtes, a creamy only slightly toasty backdrop." 93pts Matthew O'Connell, CEO of LiveTrade
"This is a denser and vinous style of rosé that gives bright, spiced red berry fruits, orange peel, and orange blossom, with a certain palate weight. There is charm and expressiveness here which shows so well right now - complexity from toasted brioche, stewed rhubarb and white flowers. The finish is poised and elegance with just a little grip." 94pts Robert Mathias MW
Vilmart Coeur de Cuvée 2004
"A little more evolved than expected, rich pastry with bruised apple and a very ripe lemon note; a reasonably deep honey tone is cut through by a nice fresh streak." 93pts Matthew O'Connell, CEO of LiveTrade
"This opens with white flowers, lemon butter, red apple, and apple compote. Some energy still running through on the palate this shows drive with accents of citrus zest. The fruit is enriched with a sense of toasty brioche and hazelnut aromas which open out on the finish. Lovely intensity and energy to the wine which is showing well right now." 92pts Robert Mathias MW
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