The Clos Fourtet 2011 has a lush nose of Tiptree strawberry jam, redcurrant, a touch of vanilla and boysenberry. It is nicely defined and quite feminine. The palate is medium-bodied with good structure on the entry and a fine, firm backbone that suggests this will be a long-term Clos Fourtet. I like the cohesion on this Saint Emilion, perhaps even a sense of restraint that is occasionally missing from the wines in their youth. It packs quite a punch on the finish with a firm grip on the off-dry finish. Excellent. Tasted April 2012.

Two consulting oenologists with different philosophies work together at Clos Fourtet. Since Stephane Derenoncourt, a late harvester, and Jean-Claude Barrouet, a much earlier harvester, have joined forces, the results have been exhilarating. This 50-acre vineyard high on the plateau, owned by the Cuvelier family and managed by Tony Balu, had yields of 33 hectoliters per hectare. The 2011, one of the stars of the vintage, is a blend of 85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc. Its opaque purple color is accompanied by notes of graphite, truffles, blackberries and blueberries. Rich and medium to full-bodied with good acidity, sweet, well-integrated tannin and a hint of forest floor, this big, fleshy St.-Emilion should drink well for two decades.

Starts slowly, with modest dark plum and blackberry fruit, but then the acidity kicks in and takes the fleshy core and bouncy side notes through the lengthy finish, which has a lovely echo of raspberry.¯J.M.

A wine with super fine tannins and a wonderful depth of fruit for the vintage. Very polished and gorgeous. Full-bodied, yet lovely for the year.

Drink 2017-2027 Dusty mineral and savoury but with a supple sweetness then more savoury and fresh on the finish. Complete and with a fine and lively wholeness. Tannins are firm but not overpowering. (JH)